Since the last update we have reluctantly left the beautiful Guatemala behind us for Honduras and are now about to embark on the second phase of our trip. Tomorrow we catch a ferry to Utila, one of the Bay Islands of Honduras where we will be hoping to notch up a few dives!
But that's all in the future. Let's catch up on the past few days shall we?
We stayed at El Retiro in Lanquin for a couple of days which, as mentioned before, is a beautiful ecolodge, in the central region of Guatemala. Incidentally, they also have a fantastic iPod service so I am now packing a mean collection of tunes.
The highlight of any trip to this region is the day excursion to the Ka'anba caves and the Semuc Champey national park. The cave expedition ranks up there with Volcan Pacaya as another excursion paying scant regard to health and safety regulations. On arrival we were kitted up with a single candle and then told to follow the guide into the caves. Having rained a lot in recent days we expected it to be wet but we didn't realise was that for most part we would be neck deep in cold water and swimming upstream in an underground river. It felt like proper Indiana Jones stuff as we all swam slowly through the cave system holding our candles above us or at some points in our mouths. The best was to come though as the guide to each of us in turn behind a surging underground waterfall. There was a sense of elation in everyone's faces as we exited the caves in a torrent of water.
In the afternoon, we moved on to the national park of Semuc Champey. This is a paradise of pools and waterfalls set amidst a lush valley with some fantastic walking trails. We spent a few hours here enjoying the clear turqoise waters of the stepped baths. The pools are actually a limestone bridge over the river Cahbon (don't ask me how they were formed) and upstream you can see the water being channeled under the bridge, as it thuders through it is a spectular sight. You wouldn't want to fall in here.
Our second day at Lanquin was a little more sedate with some nice tubing down the river (link to follow hopefully) and then in the afternoon a trip to the local batcaves of Lanquin which was very cool as you could sit at the entrance of the caves at dusk and experience the bats emerging in their thousands.
The following morning we arose early to make the long journey to Tikal national park which contains the spectacular Mayan ruins and is set deep in the jungle of northern Guatemala. The best way to see Tikal is to enter the park after 3pm (Q50 to enter), this then allows you free entry for the entirety of the next day. You are then able to experience the awesome sunset and sunrise in this mystical place.
We were too tired to go straight to the park after our travelling so we decided to spend the night at El Remate on the northwestern shore of Lago Peten Itza. We found a cute hotel called La Casa de Dona Tonita (Q60pp) and spent the evening swimming in the warm waters of the lake.
The next afternoon we caught a local bus to the park entrance. We had decide to camp here at the Jaguar Inn as not only was it the cheapest option amongst many expensive cabañas but it would allow us to be right at the park entrance for the sunrise tour.
It's difficult to describe how wondeful Tikal is. Although thousands of years old it feels very alive and you can easily imagine what it must have been like back then. See this wiki for further information. We watched the sunset from the top of the Temple Del Mundo and after asking one of the guides were permitted to stay in the park until after closing allowing us to experience the ruins by moonlight, it was magical.
The next morning we were up at 4.30 for the sunrise tour (Q100). Our group was led by the guide to Temple IV where we all climbed to the top to wait for the sun. We were greeted by an awe-inpiring view of the jungle with swirls of mist hanging above the canopy. As the sun edged it's way over the horizon the howler monkeys started to speak to each other, it was an unearthly sound and quite eery. It was the most mystical ting I have ever experienced...man! Incidentally fact fans, this exact view was used as the backgound to the rebel base in Star Wars!
But that's all in the future. Let's catch up on the past few days shall we?
We stayed at El Retiro in Lanquin for a couple of days which, as mentioned before, is a beautiful ecolodge, in the central region of Guatemala. Incidentally, they also have a fantastic iPod service so I am now packing a mean collection of tunes.
The highlight of any trip to this region is the day excursion to the Ka'anba caves and the Semuc Champey national park. The cave expedition ranks up there with Volcan Pacaya as another excursion paying scant regard to health and safety regulations. On arrival we were kitted up with a single candle and then told to follow the guide into the caves. Having rained a lot in recent days we expected it to be wet but we didn't realise was that for most part we would be neck deep in cold water and swimming upstream in an underground river. It felt like proper Indiana Jones stuff as we all swam slowly through the cave system holding our candles above us or at some points in our mouths. The best was to come though as the guide to each of us in turn behind a surging underground waterfall. There was a sense of elation in everyone's faces as we exited the caves in a torrent of water.
In the afternoon, we moved on to the national park of Semuc Champey. This is a paradise of pools and waterfalls set amidst a lush valley with some fantastic walking trails. We spent a few hours here enjoying the clear turqoise waters of the stepped baths. The pools are actually a limestone bridge over the river Cahbon (don't ask me how they were formed) and upstream you can see the water being channeled under the bridge, as it thuders through it is a spectular sight. You wouldn't want to fall in here.
Our second day at Lanquin was a little more sedate with some nice tubing down the river (link to follow hopefully) and then in the afternoon a trip to the local batcaves of Lanquin which was very cool as you could sit at the entrance of the caves at dusk and experience the bats emerging in their thousands.
The following morning we arose early to make the long journey to Tikal national park which contains the spectacular Mayan ruins and is set deep in the jungle of northern Guatemala. The best way to see Tikal is to enter the park after 3pm (Q50 to enter), this then allows you free entry for the entirety of the next day. You are then able to experience the awesome sunset and sunrise in this mystical place.
We were too tired to go straight to the park after our travelling so we decided to spend the night at El Remate on the northwestern shore of Lago Peten Itza. We found a cute hotel called La Casa de Dona Tonita (Q60pp) and spent the evening swimming in the warm waters of the lake.
The next afternoon we caught a local bus to the park entrance. We had decide to camp here at the Jaguar Inn as not only was it the cheapest option amongst many expensive cabañas but it would allow us to be right at the park entrance for the sunrise tour.
It's difficult to describe how wondeful Tikal is. Although thousands of years old it feels very alive and you can easily imagine what it must have been like back then. See this wiki for further information. We watched the sunset from the top of the Temple Del Mundo and after asking one of the guides were permitted to stay in the park until after closing allowing us to experience the ruins by moonlight, it was magical.
The next morning we were up at 4.30 for the sunrise tour (Q100). Our group was led by the guide to Temple IV where we all climbed to the top to wait for the sun. We were greeted by an awe-inpiring view of the jungle with swirls of mist hanging above the canopy. As the sun edged it's way over the horizon the howler monkeys started to speak to each other, it was an unearthly sound and quite eery. It was the most mystical ting I have ever experienced...man! Incidentally fact fans, this exact view was used as the backgound to the rebel base in Star Wars!
Photos of Tikal here.
After a few more hours exploring the ruins and watching the monkeys we left Tikal and travelled east towards the border and the second country of our trip, Honduras. We stayed in Rio Dulce near the border for a couple of nights at a hostel called The Backpackers. Rio Dulce is a beautiful river and a very popular stopoff for those yachting around the Caribbean. Not owning a yacht, we spent an afternoon on a walking tour around a local reservation and chilling in a nearby ecolodge.
The next day (yesterday) was another long day travelling across the border into Honduras and up to the north coast to the rather non-descript town of La Ceiba. Tomorrow we will take the ferry over to Utila for a few days diving - I can already feel the Carribean vibe taking over!!
I shall miss Guatemala a great deal especially my time at the school and with the family. It is a beautiful country of beautiful people and one day I will return. Although next time I shall be more careful of my things.
After a few more hours exploring the ruins and watching the monkeys we left Tikal and travelled east towards the border and the second country of our trip, Honduras. We stayed in Rio Dulce near the border for a couple of nights at a hostel called The Backpackers. Rio Dulce is a beautiful river and a very popular stopoff for those yachting around the Caribbean. Not owning a yacht, we spent an afternoon on a walking tour around a local reservation and chilling in a nearby ecolodge.
The next day (yesterday) was another long day travelling across the border into Honduras and up to the north coast to the rather non-descript town of La Ceiba. Tomorrow we will take the ferry over to Utila for a few days diving - I can already feel the Carribean vibe taking over!!
I shall miss Guatemala a great deal especially my time at the school and with the family. It is a beautiful country of beautiful people and one day I will return. Although next time I shall be more careful of my things.
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