OK. So what to say about Costa Rica. It is by far the most developed country we have been so far and there is a large US influence of course, the worst part being you bump into a lot of Americans but if you can ignore that half and just concentrate on the wildlife then it has so much to offer with probably the most diverse ecosystems in Central America. If you´re into birds then this is the place to come but suffice to say there is stilll no sign of that damned elusive Quetzal!We began our Costa Rican experience in Liberia. This is a fairly non-descript town but which provides a good base from where to visit the Rincon de la Viejo national park. On our arrival in Liberia, we found the Liberia Hotel which was run by very friendly people providing good advice. However, we then found out that not only was the park closed on Mondays (the next day) but that the country was inconsiderate enough to be holding national elections with the bizarre and wholly inexplicable side-effect of a ban on alcohol sales for two whole days, can you believe that! So, the next day we decided to spend on the Nicoye Peninsula. We began at Playa del Coco which was an awful place and so quickly moved on to Playa Hermosa which was nicer but very US in flavour with condominiums a plenty. Still, we had an enjoyable day on the beach and got some snorkelling in.
The next day we went to Rincon. It was fantastic walking culminating in a lovely waterfall and even a hummingbird and nest spot by yours truly! See our pictures here.
6 Dec
We got an early bus towards Monteverde having made the decision not to go to Fortuna and Volcano Aranel (having already been to Volcan Pacaya). We arrived early evening at St Elena (St Elena and Monteverde are both small villages separated by 5kms and both have cloud rainforest reserves) and found accomodation at Cabinas Del Pueblos . St Elena is a pretty albeit quite touristic village and reminds me of an alpine skiing village but with rainforest instead of snow!
We decide to spend the first of our two days here at St Elena cloud rainforest which is spectacular (pics here) although the day, of course, doesn´t pass of without incident. Towards of the end of our walk through the forest, and just after I say to Mel that it's a pity we havn't seen a snake, I go and step on one. I didn't spot it until I walked over it but Mel did. Unfortunately the snake now separated us and I was in a dead-end path with no where to go. The snake was not going to move and was on the defensive, it's head reared up and giving me the snake-eyes!
We deliberated about what we should do whilst the snake remained motionless staring me out. Nothing phased it and it didn't flinch even after we threw sticks at it, nor did it budge when a Dorito came it's way. We decided that the best course of action was for Mel to run back to the lodge and get the wardens. So off she went and half an hour later the cavalry arrived with a long pointed stick and removed the offending article. We were then able to return safely to base to ponder over what went wrong. Pics here.
The next morning was the zipwiring tour! Zipwiring, for those of you unaware, is when you slide down a series of taut wires attached by a harness to a small flywheel, and you literally zip from point to point. In Montervede and St Elena the tours take you over and through the rainforest canopy. Our company EXTREMO! had only been operating for two weeks and had the highest (100m) and the longest (750m) wire around. For about an hour and a half we zipped around the canopies like monkeys on speed sometimes not being able to see anything around us but mist. The tour finished with a 30m rappell followed by a stomach-churning tarzan swing (there is movie footage of us doing this, to be added later I hope). As there were only three of on the tour we were allowed to do the swing again but it didn't make it any less scary.
In the evening we cooked spag bol which was nice as you don't often get the chance to cook for yourself when travelling around.
9 Dec and 10 Dec - yesterday
We move on from the rainforests to the coast and Quepos which turns out to be an absolute dump and an evil place, it's only saving grace is that it's cheap to stay there (we stayed at the Wide Mouthed Frog) and it's near the national park of Manuel Antonio. We spent the following day at the park which is small but perfectly formed with the abundant wildlife more than compensating for the tourists. In the space of five minutes we saw white-faced monkeys being cheeky, a pesote (similar to a raccoon) enjoying a coconut, a sloth with baby not doing much and iguanas topping up their tans on the rocks.
Interesting fact about sloths. Sloths are not what you'd call killing machines but they do exhibit aggressive tendencies occasionally. On the rare occasions when they do fight, the spectacle apparently resembles t'ai chi recorded in slow motion.
So, after a gorgeous day out in the park we pack our bags and head off towards Uvita which is halfway to Corcovado National Park, our most eagerly anticipated part of Costa Rica. However, we missed our stop for the Toucan hostel and had to change our plans and stay in Uvita village instead. But, when we went to collect our backpacks from the luggage compartment I discovered to my shock that somewhere along the way from Quepos someone had taken my backpack thinking it was theirs (in the dark they must have looked the same). So, I am left holding a knackered old backpack containing pots and pans and a machete. At this point I am in shock trying to come to terms with all that has probably been lost, the tent, clothes, chargers, toothbrush etc and wondering what the hell we are going to do. Luckily, my daypack contains everything of real importance like all mour documents, iPod, camera etc.
We decide to stay in Uvita for the night (at an overpriced and bland room costing $30, haggled down from $50!) with the intention of catching the same bus going back to Quepos at 5am the next morning in the hope that the other person was as eager to get back their belongings and would perhaps intercept us on the way through.
11 Dec
After the worst nights sleep yet, we awoke this morning and caught the 5am back towards Quepos. I am in a foul mood and Mel is very patient to the extreme. As luck would have it, about an hour up the road Mel, the star, spotted my pack at the side of the road along with an anxious looking local. I jumped off the bus feeling a huge sense of relief and also disbelief that we had been reunited. I exchanged bags and hugs with the man, it was a moment.
Back in Quepos, we awaited the bus going back south and it was here we met a French Canadian woman called Carol and her daughter Tabitha going the same way and also planning on staying in Corcovado at a lodge just outside Drake Bay on the northern side. Since we had no real plans for doing Corcovado yet we have decided to go with them to the lodge and have got as far as Palmar Norte, a shitehole in the middle of nowhere, where we are staying at a Chinese restaurant.
I lost another wallet today with $20 in it. I should stop doing this.
Tomorrow, we head for the Corcovado and the unknown.
Adios!
Facts
Currency is the Colon with 535 Colons to $1
Liberia Hotel - $7 per night for dorm
Cabinas Del Pueblos $10 per room with shared kitchen and lounge
Wide Mouthed Frog $9 per night with pool
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